Monthly Archives: April 2010


When I was in Amsterdam recently, I brought home a packet of anijsblokjes (literally “aniseed blocks”). These are sugar cubes infused with aniseed oil which are stirred into a cup of hot milk, thus making anijsmelk. Simple!

As tonight it’s a bit chilly, seems like the perfect time to try them. I expected a strong liquorice taste (given how much the Dutch seem to love the stuff), but it turned out the be quite mild and very pleasant. The taste is like milk with a little honey and a light fennel aroma, and seems quite soporific. A nice alternative to bedtime cocoa, and I’ll be picking up another packet next time I see them.

While this makes a nice drink, I can also see a few other possibilities too – surely where I would normally use milk I could instead use anijsmelk? I can imagine using these to make a custard, crème brulée or rice pudding, as the flavour is a perfect way to provide an extra dimension to these dishes.  Another one for the to-do list.


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Quince Jam

Some fruit looks, smells and tastes delicious. Raspberries, strawberries, oranges…you can see why our ancestors went for them.

And then there are strange things like quince. While quince might look like pears, they have nearly rock-hard flesh and seem to be basically inedible raw. We had a quince tree in the house where I grew up, and it provided very decorative flowers but hard, inedible fruit (as a child, I discovered this quite quickly). So really, why bother? Well, apart from the delicate flowers in springtime, the secret is when you cook them – the flesh becomes soft, pink, fragrant and luscious.

I had a bit of a jam-making binge at the end of last year and had hoped to make quince jam then. However, there are no quince trees in Stokey that I know of, so I rely on the fruit in the local Turkish shops, and I missed the season. Then, a few days ago, I noticed that a box of golden quince had appeared on one fruit stall. I didn’t have time to buy them, but I kept thinking about going back. Today, I was there again and they still had a few quince fruits in stock. I found myself staring at seven of them in the fruit bowl, so what to do? More jam, obviously!

Given they are rock-hard, how do I know they are any good? Well, smell them. They have a floral pear-like smell when ripe. After sitting in the fruit bowl for a couple of hours, the whole living room was lightly infused with their perfume. On this basis, I took the plunge and assumed we were good to go.

But what was this jam going to be like? I am familiar with membrillo, the quince paste eaten with cheese in Spain, and it is a dark red colour. So how does the fruit go from creamy to red? “Magic” seems about right. I see a glimpse of this in preparing the fruit. Making the jam involves grating the quince, and it promptly went a rather unappealing brown. Was this supposed to happen? I was expecting a shift to pink or red, so a switch from light cream to brown was more than a little alarming. Ah, but then you boil the fruit, and you see the promised magic start. The brown vanished and the flesh went back to a delicate pale yellow. The aroma of quince filled the kitchen, and once I added the sugar, it turned slowly but surely to a rich pink-orange colour. Then it was just a matter of boiling, boiling, boiling until the jam hit the jelling point.

Now that I’ve made it, I am very happy I did. I love it. The fruit has gone translucent and a deep peach colour, but even after a long time on the stove, the fruit has kept some of its texture. The flavour is similar to pear, but richer with more depth, and notes of caramel and orange. Certainly a nice change from ubiquitous strawberry or raspberry. I’ve read that the colour will also change with time, deepening to more of a reddish-amber, and I would therefore expect there to be some change to the flavour too. It will be interesting to see how it “matures”, so watch out for Quince Jam Part II.

Overall, the result is fruity and aromatic rather than just another sweet jam. This would be the perfect companion to scones or on a flaky, buttery croissant…so guess what’s for breakfast on Saturday morning?

To make the jam (makes around 7 large jars):

• 2kg grated quince (6-7 fruits), washed thoroughly
• 1 litre of water
• 1kg sugar (750g sugar is you prefer a less sweet jam)
• zest of 1 lemon
• juice of 1/2 lemon

Wash the fruit, and grate it. There is no need to peel, just keep going until you get to the core (but obviously, don’t grate the core).

Put the water into a large heavy-bottomed pot, and bring to the boil. Add the quince, lemon zest and the lemon juice. Reduce the heat, and simmer the mixture until the fruit is tender (approximately 10-15 minutes).

Now add the sugar and stir with a wooden spoon until dissolved. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and cook on a medium heat until the jam reaches the setting point (this can take a while – up to an hour – but keep checking and stirring regularly to be sure that the jam does not burn on the bottom of the pan). Once the jam is ready, put into sterilised jars.

Worth making? Yes yes yes! This jam really does not involve much more than preparing the fruit, cooking it long enough to reach the setting point and putting into jars. The flavour and colour are both elegant and really quite unlike the sort of jam that you usually see, so it makes a really nice addition to the store cupboard.


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On Location: Off Broadway (Hackney, London)

A couple of days ago I found myself at a loose end in Hackney’s Broadway Market. With 101 useful things I could have done with this time, the clear choice was to slip in to a cocktail bar for a couple of hours. OK, perhaps not the most useful thing to have done, but definitely great fun. Lo and behold, we ended up in Off Broadway, which is an interpretation of an East Village dive bar in East London.

I really, really loved this place and plan to go back quite a bit. It’s intimate and friendly. The staff are really cocktail enthusiasts, and it has a range of strong, well-made cocktails to keep you going all evening before sneaking off to enjoy the rest of the delights of an evening in Hackney.

I knocked back a Dark and Stormy from the cocktail menu, and after chatting with the bar staff, they started going freestyle and mixing up drinks based on what we felt like. I had one of the best Old Fashioned cocktails ever, with a twist of amaretto and bitters. My drinking companion enjoyed martinis made from coffee and pineapple (not together).

So if you also find yourself in this part of town, make sure you drop by!

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Muttar Paneer

You may already have read about my liking for Indian food, and one of my favourite ingredients is paneer. This is an Indian cheese which is made from milk and lemon, and thus has the benefit of being 100% vegetarian, which just happens to feature in two Indian dishes that I absolutely love – palak paneer (cheese with spinach) and today’s feature, muttar paneer (cheese with peas).

I’ve eaten muttar paneer for years, and a few months ago decided to do it myself at home. “I assume you made your own paneer?” sniffed Fashpolitico at the time. “It’s terribly easy“. Well, yes, while I could have made my own paneer had I had a spare afternoon and the inclination, to be honest, noting beats the convenience of the 200g block that is stocked in my local shop. I’ll get round to making it one day, so another one for the list…

What you’ll notice about making paneer is just how simple it is – milk is soured, the whey drained off, and the curds washed and compressed. This yields a high-protein food, but also something that could lead to a very bland final result. So what to do? Well, the usual solution to any food that seems less than jiggy – cook it with lots of spice! Paneer is best in all manner of well-seasoned, fragrant dishes. I used it recently as a starter – marinated in curry and oil, and then lightly fried on both sides and served with a simple fresh coriander sauce. I suppose you could see this as a more substantial version of tofu, with the final result really being influences on just how you cook it.

Muttar paneer is well worth trying. It is one of those really simply cook-it-together-in-one-pan recipes, it is also great when you don’t have much in the store cupboard. You can play fast and loose with the spices, vary how much garlic and ginger you use, go for all fresh or all tinned tomatoes. Provided you have the paneer and some frozen peas, you’re sorted. Just make sure you get the spices right – I was always a little scared of putting in too much, but recently I’d been adding more and more, such that I will routinely double or triple the amount in a recipe. If you like it spicy, don’t be scared to be bold.

For serving, this is great with a little plain boiled rice, whole-wheat naan or chappatis and a little yoghurt raita, or go for a posh canapé and serve small portions on Chinese soup spoons.

For the muttar paneer:

• Vegetable oil
• 200g paneer
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon of fresh ginger (peeled and finely chopped)
• 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon turmeric
• 3 teaspoons curry powder
• 2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

• 1 teaspoon nigella seeds
• 1 teaspoon sambal sauce
• 1/2 stock cube
• 100g fresh tomatoes, chopped
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes
• 3 tablespoons tomato paste, mixed with a little water
• 50ml double cream
• 200g petit pois (frozen is fine, fresh if you want)

Cut the paneer into chunks (as you prefer, I aim for 1 cm cubes). Heat one tablespoon of oil in a frying pan, and cook the paneer until golden all over. It will hiss and crackle with a tendency to jump up and make a bolt for freedom, so keep an eye on it.

Once the paneer is cooked, put on a plate and allow to cool. In the same pan, add another tablespoon of oil plus the onion and ginger, and fry gently until the onion is translucent. Add the garlic, cumin seeds and the nigella seeds. Cook gently for a few minutes, being careful not to let the garlic get too dark.

Now add another two tablespoons of oil and the ground spices. Fry the spices for a couple of minutes, stirring constantly. Add a glass of water, and the mixture will form a loose paste. Cook on a medium heat until the water in the mixture evaporates and the mixture becomes thicker and oily. At this stage, add the chopped fresh tomatoes, and cook for a few minutes until the tomatoes become soft.

Now add the stock cube, the tinned tomatoes, the tomato paste and the cream, and stir well. On a low heat, allow the mixture to cook until the sauce thickens (around 30 minutes – check from time to time and season as preferred with salt and pepper). You can, of course, cook at a higher heat and the sauce will be ready sooner, but the slower cooking will allow the flavours to develop and mingle. Around half-way through the cooking process, add the frozen peas. Add the paneer a few minutes before serving – you only need to warm it through.

Serve hot with rice, bread, raita and chutney.

Worth making? I really like this recipe and it always works well. It can also be made ahead of time, and in my view, benefits from being allowed to sit so that the flavours can develop (just don’t add the peas too early – we want them fresh and green, not brown). Also, a word on the spices – really, go with what you want. If you like it spicy or very hot, then feel free to add more than the quantities I have given here. If it does end up too hot, just make sure there is enough cooling raita to solve the problem! You can also substitute sambal sauce with your favourite hotsauce (or omit if you don’t like it too spicy).

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Best Chocolate Cake

When I lived in Belgium, we would often have chocolate mousse cake at work for special occasions. Coming from Britain, I always thought of this as French chocolate cake – one of those rich, dark, dense chocolate cakes that was something like eating pure chocolate.

The thing was, for a while I tried to some up with something similar at home, but never managed to find the right recipe. The obvious answer would have been to buy a French cookbook, but I didn’t, and none of the books that I did own had a cake such as this. Then, a couple of years ago, I was asked to bring a dessert to a dinner, and I happened to see a recipe on the inside of a packet of Green & Black’s dark chocolate and I decided to give it a bash. The result was fabulous, and the recipe so easy. The secret is basically that there is no flour and just a couple of spoons of ground almonds in the recipe. Otherwise, it is a combination of chocolate, butter, eggs and sugar. I can assure you that the result is definitely not light, but the cake is also smooth and rich.

When serving, of course you could go with the classic dollop of loosely whipped double cream to lighten the cake (yes – this is so rich that cream can be added to lighten it when you eat it!) but I prefer something sharper – either creme fraiche or a tart fruit sauce. Raspberry sauce is in my view the perfect companion, and an orange coulis also works well. The key point is that whatever you use, it should be light and fresh with a bit of a kick to contrast with the heavy, lazy richness of the chocolate.

There are two other important things about a cake like this to make sure that the taste is as good as can be. Firstly, make sure you are using the best quality chocolate, and the freshest eggs and butter. Something this rich is served in small slices, so there is no excuse for skimping. Second, make it a day ahead of time, allow to cool, then leave overnight in the fridge (which means the cake is rich and dense) but take it out in good time to allow it come up to room temperature (so that the flavour is alive and intense). I am still amazed when a pudding that does not need to be chilled is served fridge-cold, as serving at room temperature makes many  dished so, so much better.

When I made this yesterday, I also tried a twist by putting some of the mixture into cupcake cases to make mini-brownies. This worked terrifically – just bake for 10 minutes, and you have richest and most decadent brownies ever.

For the chocolate cake (from Green & Black’s):

• 2 tablespoons of ground almonds
• 300g dark chocolate
• 165g unsalted butter
• 275g caster sugar
• 5 eggs, well beaten
• 1 generous pinch of sea salt, finely ground

Set the oven to 200°C.

Grease a baking pan (20cm diameter) with butter, and add one spoonful of ground almonds. Shake around the pan so that it is coated.

In a bain marie, gently melt the chocolate and butter and stir thoroughly. Add the sugar and salt and mix well, then allow to cool to lukewarm. Combine the eggs with the remaining spoonful of ground almonds, and then add the eggs to the chocolate mixture. Whisk well until evenly mixed.

Pour into the prepared pan, and cook for 40-45 minutes. The cake will puff up in the oven and then collapse when it comes out and cools down – don’t panic, as the resulting craggy appearance is quite normal. Allow to cool (ideally, leave overnight in the fridge so that the cake becomes rich and dense). Serve with a good dredging of icing sugar.

Worth making? Yes! This is foolproof, and everyone that has ever tried this has loved it. It is perfect for dinners as it tastes fabulous and can be made well ahead of time (and indeed actually benefits from being made the day before). If you’re looking for something easy with the “wow” factor, then this is it! This is also a great brownie recipe – the result is extremely rich, but makes for something a little more mature and perfect for adults.

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Swedish Limpa Bread

I’ve blogged about the freezing winter weather we had recently, but I can honestly say that it was nothing compared to the average Swedish winter I lived through a few years ago when I lived in Stockholm. That was much colder, but I think the real difference was the fact that Swedes embraced the cold weather as a fact of life, and were both prepared for it and got on with things. So we’ve just passed Easter and it’s still freezing…

So the point of all this is that when I was in Stockholm (a beautiful city which I really recommend visiting), I also developed a real soft spot for Swedish food. I like the simple savoury salads with dill, fresh vegetables in summer, wonderful dairy produce (such as filmjölk, a type of thin yoghurt) and their cinnamon-cardamom buns. On of my favourites was a bread called limpa which is made with rye, syrup and sometimes filmjölk, as well as spices. Even with the syrup, this bread still works very well for savoury open sandwiches or as a companion to a spicy soup. Making it is also a pleasure – once you’ve put the orange peel and crushed spices in a bowl, the aroma is wonderfully fresh. Plus, this is a nice chance to post about something other than sweets and cakes.

For the limpa loaf:

• 220g  plain flour
• 60g rye flour
• 1 package dry yeast
• 1 tablespoon dark sugar
• 1 teaspoon finely grated orange peel
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed caraway seeds
• pinch ground star anise
• 125ml water
• 60ml low-fat yoghurt yogurt
• 3 tablespoons black treacle or molasses
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 teaspoon instant coffee granules

Mix the flours, yeast, sugar, orange peel, salt, crushed seeds and star anise in a large bowl.

Add the water, yoghurt, butter and three spoons of treacle to a saucepan and cook until the butter melts. Add the coffee granules and stir well.

Now pour the warm liquid into the dry ingredients, and start to combine. The mixture will can be very sticky, so if this happens, add more flour to get the mixture but we do not want a ball to form – if this happens, you added too much flour and the loaf will be dry. Knead for around 7-8 minutes until elastic.

Lightly oil a large bowl and put the dough in it, covering with a damp teacloth. Leave somewhere warm for 1-2 hours until almost doubled in size.

Next, punch down the dough, roll out to a rectangle in a floured surface, and then roll up the dough like a swiss role. Tuck the ends underneath the roll, and place into a lightly oiled bread tin. Leave the loaf somewhere warm to rise until doubled in size.

In the meantime, set the oven to 175°C. Once the loaf has risen, bake for 40-45 minutes. If you want to, after 20 minutes,  brush to top of the loaf with diluted treacle (50-50 treacle and water), and repeat 10 minutes later.

Once the loaf is cooked, allow it to cool in the pan for 5 minutes. Remove from the pan and cool completely on a wire rack.

Worth making again? This is not the sort of loaf that you would have for everyday use (for example, it doesn’t work too well in a bread machine), but it is nice from time to time when you have a spare morning and don’t mind coming back to it. I probably do this three or four times per year. The taste is quite unusual – the spices and orange make it aromatic, and there is a sweetness to it that isn’t to everyone’s taste, but I find it goes well with cheese in sandwiches. Or go the whole hog and make a smörgås (Swedish open sandwich) with cheese, dill and pickles.

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Cous cous

We have a Wholefoods in Stoke Newington. Nice, but a little like visiting a museum in that it is full of lovely things, but the stuff on display is really beyond my price range. Actually, that is a bit of an exaggeration. While some of the lines there have eye-watering prices, particularly given that I can buy exactly the same thing at the excellent 24 hour independent grocery along the street (really, they have everything), Wholefoods does carry some items that I just can’t find elsewhere, and you do also have the occasional pleasure of finding things that you’ve never seen before.

I was recently on the lookout for an alternative to pasta (being fed up with rice and polenta), and came across a type of cous cous called maftoul. I am familiar with the very fine variety, but this is larger – the grains are a 2-3mm across. I’ve seen something similar before, but tended to be a luminous yellow colour. This was completely different – light brown and irregular looking. However, the packet looked attractive (see the post on marqt – if it looks stylish, I’m usually hooked), and I though it was worth trying.

So I cooked it, tried it and…this stuff is excellent. The grains stay separate, and become soft but retain a bit of “chewiness” to them, which certainly makes it more interesting to eat. The flavour is also quite unlike normal cous cous. There is a distinct woody/smokey character to it which I found worked really well in this salad. The cous cous become one of the flavours in the dish, rather than just serving to bulk it out. I used it as part of a light salad with tomatoes, cucumber, carrot, halloumi and mint, and added a light lemon/oil dressing to provide a little kick and bring everything together.

For the cous cous:

• 75g cous cous
• 100g (1/2 packet) halloumi cheese, thinly sliced
• 1 large tomato
• 1/3 cucumber

• 1 carrot
• 3 sprigs of fresh mint

Start with the cous cous. This can be steamed, but I cooked it in a pan with a little stock. Best to check the directions on whatever you are using.

While the cous cous is cooking, start with the cheese. Fry the halloumi with a little olive oil until golden brown on both sides, then remove from the heat and allow to cool.

As the cheese is cooling, chop the tomato into chunks. Cut the cucumber into quarters lengthways, remove the seeds, and chop or slice (whichever you feel like at that moment). Peel the carrot, then use the peeler to make thin strips of carrot. Remove the mint leaves from the sprigs (you around 15-20 leaves in total), and slice very finely. Put the tomato, cucumber, carrot and mint in a salad bowl. Add the halloumi (you can tear into smaller chunks if preferred).

Once the cous cous is ready, allow it to cool (either room temperature or lukewarm). Add to the rest of the salad, add the dressing and toss lightly. Enjoy with a glass of white wine!

For the dressing:

• 1/2 chilli (seeds and veins removed), finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 lemon, juiced

Put everything in a jam jar and shake furiously.

Worth making? Yes. The cous cous itself is a revelation. The meal was inspired by that I had in the fridge and kitchen cupboards, and I was amazed with how well it turned out. This is a good recipe to have in the repertoire, and I am sure lends itself to a bit of improvisation, as long as you keep the flavours fresh and, crucially, make sure that it is served at room temperature or just warm. So take the veggies out of the fridge in good time!

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Easter Lunch with an Indian theme

Lunch with friends at home on Easter Sunday – obviously time for, eh, curry. However, this time I am not the chef, nor is this (yet another) “on location” special.

Today is exciting as Fashpolitico is appearing as a guest chef. We were round at her house at the weekend, and she did a star turn with a colourful selection of spicy Asian goodies. Spicy Indian cream tomato soup with bhajis to start, then squash in tomato and coconut milk, dahl, coconut green beans with mint, saffron and spiced rice and cucumber raita, all followed by an orange and cardamom cake. And all absolutely delicious.

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Chicory and Peanut Salad with Chilli-Lime Dressing

I’ve noticed I’ve got a bit of a habit of favouring complex or time-consuming recipes. To make up for this, here is a quick and easy salad with an Asian twist to it.

I made this a few days ago to accompany a chickpea and squash curry. I liked the idea of the crisp, fresh vegetables with a sharp citrus and chilli dressing to contrast with the rich, spicy curry, and the two dishes worked together really well. The salad was huge, but it all went between three people. I think the “lightness” of the salad meant it was easy to keep picking at it once we had finished the main course, although I must confess that the raw veggies also were also perfect for dipping into the remaining satay sauce…

For the salad:

• 2 heads of chicory
• 1 large carrot
• 1/2 cucumber
• 3 spring onions
• 75g peanuts
• handful coriander
• 5-6 mint leaves, finely chopped

Place the peanuts on a baking tray and toast in the oven at 180°C until lightly golden. Remove from the oven, allow to cool, and chop roughly.

Cut the chicory in half, then slice each of the halves into very fine strips lengthways.  Peel the carrot, and slice into fine strips lengthways with a vegetable peeler. Cut the cucumber into quarters, and remove the seeds. Cut into thin batons. Top and tail the spring onions, and cut – you’ve guess it – lengthways into thin strips.

Place the sliced vegetables in a bowl and toss gently. Sprinkle over the peanuts, coriander and mint. Just before serving, pour on the dressing.

For the dressing:

• 1 red chilli
• 1 unwaxed lime (rind and juice only)
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon brown sugar

Remove the seeds and veins from the chilli, and chop finely. Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and whisk. Allow to sit until you are ready to serve the salad, and whisk again just before using.

Worth making? Yes. There is a nice mixture of textures and flavours here, with the bonus that there is very little salt in this recipe (apart from the soy sauce). Nothing here is particularly unusual, which made the end result all the more impressive, and I am sure that the basic recipe would lend itself to easy adaptation (cos lettuce in place of chicory, adding beansprouts or pea shoots…so many options!).


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On Location: Oost Pizzeria (Oost, Amsterdam)

This is the last in the recent wave of Dutch-themed post. On my recent trip to the Netherlands, I arrived back late in Amsterdam from a couple of days in the Dutch outback (subsisting mainly on beer and gouda cheese), and thoughts inevitably turned to a decent pizza. We went with our host to a pizzeria in the Oost district of Amsterdam which, in a clear moment of inspiration on the part of the owner, was called Oost.

I am always struck by just how different a neighbourhood restaurants is in other cities as compared to London. Even in good old N16, places are often rammed, loud and you need to book. Other places just don’t seem to be as busy, and I love being able to decide to go somewhere, entering, choosing a table and sitting down. Sounds strange, but living in a city where you can end up fighting strangers for table space, this is a rare treat. Oost is just such a relaxed “easy” place. The menu is pretty straightforward – simple antipasti, half a dozen pasta dishes, a dozen pizzas, and they just seem to get on with what they are trying to do very well.

We went for a selection of crostini (mozzarella/tomato, mushrooms with truffle oil, and goat’s cheese and fig jam) which really hit the spot. I was going to take the mushroom/truffle version, but then decided in the interests of trying new things, the goat’s cheese with fig was the way to go, and frankly I am glad I did. I first had fig jam a few weeks ago on a visit to Brussels fell in love with it, and I am happy to report that I am still in a very meaningful relationship with the candied fruits of ficus carica. This had a light sweetness and freshness that you often do not get when goat’s cheese is coupled with honey. In short, yum.

For the main, it was, of course, a pizza. I went for one with artichoke, goat’s cheese and rocket. I realise that this is actually a phenomenal amount of goat’s cheese in one meal and it was surely a sign that I was not really thinking about what I was doing after spending hours stuck in motorway traffic coming back into Amsterdam, but I happen to love goat’s cheese, so not really an issue. Anyway, the pizza was fab – nice and crispy and with a generous amount of toppings, but not overloaded It was also surprisingly light – I typically ask for less mozzarella on pizzas as they can often be very greasy, but this one was not. All in all, a nice dish. It doesn’t (quite) beat my favourite in London, but as they are clearly not competing, I guess I never have to choose between them.

For dessert, I plumped for the affogato (espresso over vanilla ice-cream). This was nice, but I have had better (yup, we’re back to LondonEats’ favourite pizzeria in Clerkenwell again). My own preference is for very cold ice-cream, so that when the espresso goes over, the ice-cream stays very firm. It is also important that the ice-cream is not too sweet, so that the flavour of the coffee shines alongside the vanilla, rather than just supporting it. The ice-cream was still good (if just a touch softer than I like it), but I appreciated the hazelnut macaroon biscuit with it, which made for a contrasting texture with the ice-cream and coffee.

Would I go again? Definitely. The food was very nice, and if the only weak point was that the dessert was good rather than stellar, I can live with this. The decor is fresh and inviting, the service friendly and, when summer comes, one very impressive looking south-facing terrace. Bring on the sunshine, and I may well be back.

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