As the lockdown has progressed, our household has been starting to feel a bit unhealthy. We’ve been consuming lot of pasta and cheese, so we decided the moment had arrived to switch things up. We signed up with OddBox to get a delivery of various fruit and veggies every week, and now that the weather is getting warmer, we’re having substantial salads made with lentils and lots of raw, chopped veg. I feel like the old adage “you are what you eat” was never more appropriate, as we’re really feeling the correlation between our meals and how we’re feeling. It also means that if we don’t keep things healthy, there will be piles of vegetables on the kitchen worktop making us feel guilty. Few things make you eat more veg than knowing there is even more veg arriving in the next day or so!
But what this musing on health have to do with cookies? I guess it is my roundabout way of saying we’re not giving up on them, but I’ve started making batches of smaller cookies rather than large ones. Since we’re not doing spin classes or four-hour walks any more, those mega-treats are rather off limits for the time being. That said, I do now have a bike and I’m getting into using it, but not quite enough to justify too many large, chewy choc chip cookies. Well, not yet anyway…
So. We’ve done some delayed cake, so here are some delayed cookies! I’ve made a batch of Goudse Moppen. These are Dutch cookies that hail from the city of Gouda. It’s a place that is more famous for its cheese and the name roughly translates as “jokes from Gouda”. Or maybe we could call them “Gouda wheezes from the city of cheeses”? Anyway, like the cheese, these cookies are very good. Buttery, flavoured with a little lemon zest, and very much the sort of small cookie you might have in the afternoon with a cup of coffee.
These are a very easy cookie to make. The dough is a simple shortbread-type dough which is formed into a log and rolled in granulated sugar (or kristalsuiker in Dutch, which translates as the more poetic “crystal sugar”).
The logs are then chilled, sliced and baked, leaving each cookie with delicate texture and a crisp sugared edge.
One little aside that may be more of a testament to me now being in Week 8 of working from home. The traditional sort of sugar to use is the rude-sounding basterdsuiker. I wondered what this meant exactly beyond the obvious, but I was mainly left confused. There is pale and dark basterdsuiker which seem to me to be light brown and dark brown sugar. The mystery was what on earth white basterdsuiker could be. It is not normal caster sugar or granulated sugar, and it seems to be something with the higher moisture content of soft brown sugar, but it is white. Frankly, I’ve no idea what that would be as I’ve never seen it before. One for me to look out for on my next trip to the Netherlands. If you know, please enlighten me!
To make Goudse Moppen (makes around 50)
• 200g butter
• 125g caster sugar
• zest of 1/2 lemon
• 1/4 teaspoon salt, finely ground
• 1 egg yolk
• 250g plain flour
• granulated sugar, to coat
1. Put the butter, caster sugar, lemon zest and salt into a bowl. Beat well until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolk and mix again until everything is combined. Finally add the flour and mix with a wooden spoon, and finally your hands, until it forms a soft dough.
2. Divide the dough in 2 pieces. Sprinkle the worktop with granulated sugar, and roll each piece out to a sausage of 4cm diameter, making sure that the entire outside of the roll is well-coated with sugar. Wrap each piece in cling film and chill for 30 minutes.
3. After 30 minutes, take then out of the fridge but leave them in cling film. Roll each one gently to make sure they keep their cylinder shape, as they can “sag” slightly if the dough is warm. Put back in the fridge and leave to chill overnight.
4. Preheat the oven to 170°C (340°F). Line a baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
5. Unpack a roll of chilled cookie dough. Use a very sharp knife to cut 1cm pieces. Transfer to the baking sheet, leaving space for them to expand. Bake for around 15 minutes until golden, turning half way to get an even colour (watch them like a hawk – it’s a fine line between golden and burnt!). Remove from the oven, allow to cool and harden, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
LondonEats 
Hi there. “Basterd suiker” comes in white, light brown and dark brown and is very much like the light brown and dark brown sugar here. I assume the white one is just more refined? I am not really sure, but the consistency is the same as soft brown sugar. I usually would use light brown sugar I guess, or a fine sugar. I often think the different sugars are a bit of a faff tbh. Basterd is not a rude word in Dutch, I think it may come from “verbasterd”, which means “not pure“, or “changed”. So it does come from the same root, as a bastard is originally just the word for an illegitimate child. So not quite “pure” either.
Also, in this case the word “Mop” does not mean joke. It’s an old word used for certain biscuits, but as a Dutch person I do not associate it with jokes in that context.
This is just of the top of my head. Someone else may have more detail.
Thanks for this, they look nice. Will give them a try.
Thanks Cynthia – I thought it would have some sort of meaning like that (and of course Dutch has another word for the more obvious meaning… 🙂 ). I’ve just never seen the white version, I would imagine it looks a bit like damp caster sugar? And glad you could clarify “mop” in this context. I asked at home and got a blank stare from our resident Duchie. I’ve done some more digging, and one source suggests that “mop” was an informal word for bricks in the 17th century, and this use transferred to cookies (kind of makes sense – hard, regular shape, baked in the oven).
Do give them a try – we really like them. Even my son liked them, and he can be quite fussy!
This sounds like my kind of recipe, and I shall try making them soon. Thanks for sharing 🙂
Thanks Andrea!